Wildlife Photography in Madagascar with Kaspar Rønningen

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Wildlife Photography in Madagascar with Kaspar Rønningen

Meet Kaspar Rønningen

Kaspar Rønningen, a safari guide, photographer, and ecology student from Norway, has built his life around a deep respect for wildlife and the ecosystems they depend on. His passion goes beyond observation, it’s grounded in understanding and protecting the natural world. Through guiding, studying, and documenting, he connects people to nature while advocating for its preservation. His journeys are never just about where he goes, but about what he learns, and what those places reveal about the fragile balance between species, climate, and human impact.

In this field notes post, Kaspar shares his most recent journey through Madagascar and Réunion Island. Moving between volcanic landscapes, dense rainforests, and dry sandstone canyons, he reflects on the wildlife encounters and shifting environments that define the region. Alongside these experiences, he also reflects on how his Beyond Nordic gear supports him in constantly changing conditions, allowing him to stay focused on observation, conservation, and storytelling in some of the world’s most demanding terrains.

A Life Shaped by Wildlife

Growing up I’ve gotten the chance to spend about 10 years of my life on Madagascar and Reunion Island. Returning to these lands is less about discovery and more about returning to places I know well and moving through them again.

On Réunion island, that usually means heading toward Piton de la Fournaise, its only active volcano, and one of the most active volcanoes in the world. The trek doesn’t change much, but the conditions always do. One day you’re walking across cooled lavascapes, the next you’re watching the earth open again. This time, there was high activity, as the lava river engulfed the coastal highway RN2 for the first time since 2007.

Rainforests, and Rhythms of the Land

In Madagascar, the pace shifts. Walking through the dense foliage in the rainforests of Andasibe-Mantadia National Park is peaceful. The park is perhaps best known for its most iconic resident, the Indri. Unlike other lemurs, the Indri does not have a long tail, and its haunting, echoing calls carry for kilometers through the forest. Hearing this natural chorus at dawn is one of the most unforgettable experiences in Andasibe.

Rising from the dry plains of southwestern Madagascar, Isalo is famous for its towering sandstone formations. Over millions of years, wind and water have carved these rocks into deep canyons, and sharp ridges. Despite the harsh, semi-arid climate, life thrives here in surprising ways. Hidden within the canyons are lush oases where clear streams collect into pools, fringed by palms and pandanus trees. These pockets of water create a striking contrast with the dry, rocky surroundings, like paradise tucked into the crevices. Trekking there involves long stretches, dry heat, and a steady rhythm of walking.

Wildlife adds another layer of wonder. Several species of lemurs, including the lively Ring-tailed lemur and the agile Verreaux's sifaka, move through the landscape. Early mornings often reveal them basking in the sun, arms stretched wide. The park is also home to unique reptiles, colorful birds, and endemic plants found nowhere else on Earth.

Shifting temperatures, acid rain, and rugged terrain

Even with experience, these places still require a lot from your gear. On Piton de la Fournaise, the shifting conditions are a central factor. Sharp lava rock wears things down quickly, and footing is rarely stable, especially on newly cooled lavascapes. Add wind exposure, cold alpine temperatures, acid rain and heat coming off the ground, and it becomes a place where adaptability matters more than anything else. The temperatures on the top of the volcano quickly shift from 20 to 0 degrees Celsius as soon as the sun sets, clothes that can adapt to the changes make for a more comfortable and safer trek. During volcanic eruptions, sulphur dioxide can be expelled and blends with precipitation, making for lightly toxic acid rain. Therefore, waterproof wear and caps are key to saving yourself from irritants, when witnessing the raw forces that shape our planet.

In Isalo National Park, the challenge is different. The landscape in the national park is open on the steppes, where the heat builds throughout the day. You’re moving for hours at a time, often without much shade, so breathability and comfort are key. Also, bring plenty of water. The lush canyons are the complete opposite, they’re vibrant humid oases, so for those interested in wildlife, bring binoculars. These valleys are filled with lemurs such as the charismatic ring-tailed lemur, as well as lesser-known lemurs such as the sifaka. Here, something slightly warmer will do good.

The rainforest in Andasibe-Mantadia National Park adds another layer. High humidity, mud, dense foliage, and uneven ground slow you down. Even simple movement takes more effort, and anything that doesn’t dry or breathe properly becomes noticeable fast when the colder temperatures hit. Stay dry! Across all of it, the priorities stay consistent: gear that adapts and gear that stays comfortable. These are key when moving through terrain where the conditions change constantly.

How the Gear Holds Up

Using Beyond Nordic gear across these environments has been more about its high adaptability than standout features. Traversing active volcanic terrain, durability and adaptability is the first thing you notice. Moving across fuming lava fields, stepping over sharp edges and feeling the tingle as the acid rain touches your hands… It’s the kind of environment where weaker materials start to show wear quickly. That hasn’t really been an issue here, especially with the BN301v2 Light Weight Shell Jacket, as its nylon and TPU layers are naturally resistant to higher acidity, compared to cotton or wool. Underneath this we used the BN106 Tech Fleece Hoodie, once the acid rain blew away, and the sun shined. The tech fleece has the perfect balance between keeping yourself warm but also wicking away sweat and humidity. This was key when the temperatures dropped, the tech fleece kept us warm as a middle layer.

Even though our gear has done its job, it is not lava proof. So, this was a spectacle better observed from a safe distance. In hotter conditions, especially in Isalo, breathability matters more. Long days in the sun, with heat reflecting off the ground, make it obvious when gear traps too much warmth. Here, it stays light enough to keep moving without needing to constantly stop and cool down. The BN005 Zip-Off pants worked best as shorts here, with ventilation zips fully open in the day, and closed, with the pants zipped on at night.

Moving to the eastern rainforests, the zip off pants proved useful as pants. Humidity exposes everything, if something holds moisture or restricts movement, it becomes uncomfortable fast. The merino garments had the perfect balance between heat and flexibility. What works here is the balance: light, flexible, and quick to dry.

Final Words

What stands out over time isn’t any single moment, it’s how different these environments are, even when they’ve been part of your life for years. Watching lava move slowly across the surface on Piton de la Fournaise. Hearing movement in the forest before spotting lemurs in Andasibe-Mantadia National Park. Walking through the open, dry landscapes of Isalo National Park. And ending the day near the coast, where the waves reset the pace completely. Having gear that supports that, without needing attention, makes it easier to stay focused in the moment.

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